Expert: Dr. Endre Sos
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Struggling to Survive in a Changing World.
The Amami can only be found on two isolated Japanese islands, and have lived happily in dense wooded areas surviving on bamboo shots, berries and other local vegetation. They are sometimes called “living fossils” as they are the last remaining descendants of ancient wild rabbits that once roamed the whole of the Asian continent. They weigh an average of 5 to 6 pounds, and are usually a dark grey in color. Their dwindling numbers have come about mainly as a result of human interference in their lives. Up until the 1920’s they were hunted for both meat and medical purposes, then heavy logging in the
Amami Oshima and Tokunoshima Islands where they live all but destroyed their habitat. The fact that a healthy Amami doe only usually produces two small litters per year meant that natural restocking could not keep up with decimation being caused by the modern world and its’ people.

Using Science to Save a Species.
The Osaka geneticists, from the noted Kiki University, took cells from the ear of a dead Amami rabbit, and introduced them to an unfertilized egg from a lab rabbit. They did manage to create a viable embryo that was successfully re implanted. Although the scientists have yet to publically release the results of this first pregnancy, they do intend to continue their work until they are successful. The same team did successfully clone and restore a species of wild rat, so they believe that saving the ancient Amami is a real possibility.

For a larger rabbit the Rabbitat Large measures a roomy 42 3/4″W x 28″D x 38 3/4″H, and features a large drop down door in the front for easy access. The flooring is made from coated wire for extra comfort, and a slide out plastic pan makes cage cleaning a breeze.
The Rabbitat Deluxe – Perfect for the Outdoor Bunny.
The Ware Rabbitat Deluxe offers extra protection from the elements, making it an ideal choice for housing the outdoor rabbit. A fully enclosed and insulated sleeping area is separated from the main cage by a removable wooden divider. An extra, removable front panel offers extra protection for your bunny in harsh weather conditions.

All of the Rabbitat hutches come ready to assemble, with very little more than a screwdriver required.

CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO: Ware Rabbitat Hutches

French Lop Rabbits – The Other European Big Boys

The French Lop has been in existence since the middle of the nineteenth century, the breed coming from the cross breeding of Flemish Giants and English Lops. As a result the French Lop has a slightly larger body than its cross channel cousin, and slightly less ear than its huge Flemish ancestors.

Definitely a Major League Rabbit

The average French Lop males weigh in at twelve pounds and up, with the females usually two to three pounds heavier. Their lop ears have a distinctive “horseshoe” shape and fall below the jaw by an inch or two. Most are found in a variety of darker colors, from sooty fawn and gray, to black and chinchilla.

Docile, Lazy and Loyal

Because of their huge size, if they are to be kept as pets in the home, the French Lop needs a good amount of space to himself. They are usually even tempered and docile, sleeping most of the day, after being fairly active and playful in the morning and evening. They are generally especially active late at night, so that should be a consideration for anyone thinking about keeping a French Lop as a house rabbit. They are affectionate creatures and usually make very loyal and loving pets. They can also thrive in an outdoor setting, provided their cage is spacious and well insulated.

Not too Much to Brush, But Watch Those Ears

The French Lop requires little grooming, but like most other lop eared breeds they are prone to ear mites. Using the medication Ivermectin under the supervision of a vet can greatly prevent and alleviate the problem. A regular check of the whole ear can spot problems before they get worse.

The Netherland Dwarf Rabbit – Feisty Bunny in a Tiny Body

The Netherland Dwarf Rabbit is another tiny, cute breed that is incredibly popular with breeders and pet owners alike. The average Netherland Dwarf tips the scales at a diminutive two pounds, making it one of the smallest breeds in the world.

Just Like the Bunny in the Commercials

The Netherland Dwarf is usually a furry bundle of energy. They hate to be cooped up for long periods of time and love to run around and play with small toys. If their owner doesn’t give them their own, they have a habit of making them, out of mattresses, clothing and any papers they might find (lock up your important documents!).

They do get a rather bad rap, as many people describe them as being bad tempered, but if they are handled properly from an early age they bite and scratch no more than other breeds. It may be a good idea when purchasing a Netherland Dwarf to go for a slightly older animal, around five months, so you have a better idea of its temperament.

Stubby Ears and Chunky Bodies

The Netherland Dwarf is a stout looking creature, with short, stubby ears. A show Netherland will be disqualified if its ears measure over two and a half inches. Their small ears also mean they cannot regulate heat as well as bigger eared bunnies, so they need to be kept cool at all times. They come in a vast array of colors, more than any other breed.

Harder to Breed, But Worth the Effort

The Netherland Dwarf is a notoriously difficult rabbit to breed successfully. From small sized litters (averaging one to four) half can be born with two dwarfing genes, which is invariably fatal. The Netherland also sometimes carries the “Max Factor Gene” which causes kits to be born with mutated or missing limbs and misaligned teeth. For a breeder, finding good specimens to breed can be a hard task, but most who make the effort usually find its well worth it.

Do’s and Don’ts of Rabbit Breeding Genetics

Genetics play a huge part in the production of healthy, attractive rabbit lines that appeal to both breeder and potential owners alike.

Rabbit genetics is a science unto itself, and a good rabbit breeder will take the time to educate themselves in a little depth in the subject. However there are a few basic dos and don’ts that should be followed, whatever breed you are trying to raise.

Do:

• Make sure you begin your breeding program with the healthiest, quality specimens you can afford. A high pedigree is not an essential to successful rabbit breeding, but using animals free of major and noticeable genetic defects such as misshapen limbs and teeth certainly is.

• Concentrate your first efforts on breeding healthy rabbits with good body types before experimenting with color. New and experimental colorations are often accompanied with poor body types until the shade has been properly developed.

• Take the time to research the specific breed you are hoping to raise. Each different one is prone to its own genetic strengths and weaknesses.

Don’ts:

• Breed two “broken” rabbits together if you hope to produce a litter for show purposes. This pairing almost always results in one or two “Charlie Marked” kits in a litter, babies who are almost all white in color with only patchy spots of color.

• Attempt to cross breed species as an inexperienced breeder. The genetic difficulties that may result can be recessive, and not show up until the third or fourth generation of the line.

• Breed a rabbit of attractive color but with visible bodily defects into a quality line. Breeding out the physical defect will take far longer than adding new colors and patterns into a healthy line.

As the public in general tends to adore the dwarf or mini breeds of rabbit, such as the Holland Lop or Mini Rex, some breeders are tempted to try to produce a Dwarf strain of their own line.

If two true Dwarf rabbits are bred together it is almost certain that at least a few of the litter will be born with a double dwarf gene, which is invariably fatal.

Sadly, these kits are almost certainly destined to die in a few short days, and the kindest thing a rabbit breeder can do is allow nature to take its course.

Inexperienced breeders should not really attempt any genetic experimentation until they become skilled at breeding healthy, quality livestock.

Breeding the Holland Lop, a Beginner’s Guide

For Holland Lop Rabbit Breeding you’ll need separate cages for the buck and the doe. They will happily breed unsupervised if they’re caged together.

You will also need a different cage for the offspring, and a lot of cages if you care to acquire them up for meat or appearance.

This can be quite a considerable financial investment to start with…feeders, trays, water bottles etc. You’ll also need a nestbox for the doe.

Make a sure your rabbits are free of diseases. Rabbit VD can cause the doe to lose her fur. Make certain your chosen rabbits are well conditioned and in good shape. Overweight does have a difficult time giving birth.

Getting Off to a Good Start

To start controlled breeding, add the Holland Lop doe to the buck’s cage. He will try to mount her. Hopefully, your doe will collaborate and will advance her rear up for him. Within a identical short clip will bang his feet, and may grunt and drop-off.

I usually allow a buck three conjugations, and then remove the doe from the cage. It is usually recommended to try rebreeding again within six hours. Go write this date on the calendar so you don’t forget!!!

Also, count up 28 days on your calendar and write “Nestbox”. Finally, count day 30 and write “Bunnies Due”. Don’t think you are going to remember. Little is worse than seeing a perfectly nice litter born dead on the cage floor.

Keeping Watch is Key

Does are induced ovulators, which means they don’t have a heat cycle like dogs do. They do have times when they are need less forced breeding than others, but it is hard to predict.

If your doe doesn’t collaborate on the first day, keep trying every day until she does. Light plays a big part in the Holland Lop doe’s receptivity. Try to simulate the number of hours of light in spring by leaving the lights on, and you may have better luck.

Some does can be very stubborn about rising for the buck. You could try to encourage her by lifting her rear slightly (make sure you have long sleeves on in case she tries to bite). If she appears to be completely disinterested or is grumbling, you should remove her and try her later as a disgruntled doe may attack and injure the buck.

Always watch. No it isn’t being rude or nosy…it is important for several reasons. You’ll know if she was actually bred and you will be there to step in quickly if the pair begins to fight or bite each other too hard. When the breeding is through with, take the doe back to her cage.

9 Tips for Better Breeding

1. Both the buck and doe should be appropriate breeding age, in most cases they should be at least six months old. Many does will be unable to breed if not first bred by nine months, due to pelvic bone fusion, so the ideal age is somewhere in between.
2. Ideally, both rabbits should be of same breed, unless you’re breeding purely as pets.
3. The buck should be somewhat smaller than the doe.
4. They should both be as healthy as possible and free from any major genetic defects that could be passed on to potential offspring.
5. Never breed brother to sister. Other combinations are usually ok; mother to son for example, but this is not a recommended practice for a beginner, as it requires a good understanding of line breeding genetics to be successful.
6. Unless you are planning on keeping all the kits you will need to find them suitable homes,(depending on the breed rabbits can have between 3-12 kits in a litter). You may have to advertise for, then screen, potential adoptive parents, which may involve a considerable cash outlay.
7. You will need a separate hutch to keep the kits in once they are weaned. If they haven’t been sold by sixteen weeks you will need to separate sisters and brothers into larger separate hutches. It may also be necessary to keep a spare cage on hand for any animal that becomes sick and needs to be kept way from its siblings for the health and safety of them all.
8. Consider the costs of the extra bedding and food involved with a new litter of kits. If you do manage to sell your rabbits, it is a good idea to supply the new owners with a small supply of the food that the animal is used to eating, to avoid upsetting his delicate digestive system.
9. The most important thing is that you have the time to devote to the proper care of your rabbits. Parents and kits will need regular feeding, watering and grooming. The cages in which the babies live must also be kept especially clean, as these young rabbit, still too young for vaccinations, can be very susceptible to diseases that would not impact a older rabbit as harshly as it might a kit.