Placing the Rabbit Cage

It is essential to ensure that your rabbit is comfortable when it is inside it’s cage. The rabbit cage should be put in a cool and cozy place in your house, away from any household hazards. It should also be put in a area which is away from any predatory house pets or noisy machinery.

A rabbit loves attention. It is advisable to put the rabbit in a place where there is a lot of activity in the house so that it will not feel lonely and isolated.

Inside Cage Essentials

At minimum, your rabbit cage should be equipped with the following:

a litterbox

containers for food and water

soft bedding

toys to keep the rabbit amused and occupied

Beddings

There are many different beddings which can be used for the rabbit. The most common are hay, straw, grass or sisal mats. Shredded newspaper and fabric scraps are sometimes used as alternative bedding for rabbits.

Litter and the Litterbox

Litters can be made from several materials. Paper pulp is a popular choice of litter, as it has good absorbency and reduces odor. The second, highly recommended litter is compressed sawdust pellets. Sawdust pellets are relatively cheap and extremely absorbant. The non-toxic sawdust helps control bacterial growth and odors.

Pine or cedar shavings should be avoided, as these materials can be toxic to the rabbit.

The litterbox should be placed in the rabbit’s favorite elimiation spot in the cage to facilitate litter training.

Upkeeping Your Rabbit Cage

White vinegar is the recommended agent for cleaning out litterboxes. Soaking the pans in vinegar will remove even the toughest stains.

With these five tips in hand, you will have your rabbit cage ready for your bunny in no time.

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Responsible Rabbit Breeding – What Every Beginner Needs to Know

Rabbit breeding is something not to be taken lightly. Unfortunately there are thousands of rabbits to be found in animal shelters worldwide, mainly as a result of irresponsible “back yard breeders”. These people mean well, but fail to consider the overall outcome, a number of rabbits looking for a good home.

If you have however decided to begin breeding rabbits, and have a reasonable plan for their life beyond babyhood, there are basic equipment and environmental concerns that must be taken care of before a breeding program is started.

Housing and Space Concerns

Adequate cage space is essential. You will need cages for the parents, one each, as it is not advisable for them to be housed together. A rabbit can produce as many as twelve kits per litter, so their living space must also be be spacious and comfortable.

Although sibling rabbits can be successfully housed together in the first weeks of life, by the time a kit is three months old, they should be housed in their own separate living enclosure. That is an awful lot of space, and a large number of cages.

A system for needs to be planned out in advance to ensure all the rabbits are properly fed, cleaned and groomed. Taking care of a large litter of rabbits, in addition to their parents, can be more than a part time task.

The Best Time to Begin a Breeding Program

Weather and the changing seasons also play a major factor in breeding success. Most breeders agree that spring is the optimum breeding season.

Extreme summer heat and the freezing temperatures of winter can prove fatal very quickly for tiny kits. Fall, traditionally is a difficult time to produce litters, although no one has a concrete explanation for why that is.

In addition to her regular cage you will need a clean nest box for your doe. Metal next boxes with the corrugated board removable flooring are popular and easily available but many choose all wood nest boxes for their does.

Wood is certainly retains warmth more easily, a great bonus, especially for those breeding rabbits in colder climates. The box need only be big enough for the doe to turn around in it, and house the babies in the first few weeks of life, before they are weaned.

The nest box should be lined with a nesting material of some variety. Many breeders recommend clean grass hay, but straw and wood shavings can also be used.

Breeding the Holland Lop, a Beginner’s Guide

For Holland Lop Rabbit Breeding you’ll need separate cages for the buck and the doe. They will happily breed unsupervised if they’re caged together.

You will also need a different cage for the offspring, and a lot of cages if you care to acquire them up for meat or appearance.

This can be quite a considerable financial investment to start with…feeders, trays, water bottles etc. You’ll also need a nestbox for the doe.

Make a sure your rabbits are free of diseases. Rabbit VD can cause the doe to lose her fur. Make certain your chosen rabbits are well conditioned and in good shape. Overweight does have a difficult time giving birth.

Getting Off to a Good Start

To start controlled breeding, add the Holland Lop doe to the buck’s cage. He will try to mount her. Hopefully, your doe will collaborate and will advance her rear up for him. Within a identical short clip will bang his feet, and may grunt and drop-off.

I usually allow a buck three conjugations, and then remove the doe from the cage. It is usually recommended to try rebreeding again within six hours. Go write this date on the calendar so you don’t forget!!!

Also, count up 28 days on your calendar and write “Nestbox”. Finally, count day 30 and write “Bunnies Due”. Don’t think you are going to remember. Little is worse than seeing a perfectly nice litter born dead on the cage floor.

Keeping Watch is Key

Does are induced ovulators, which means they don’t have a heat cycle like dogs do. They do have times when they are need less forced breeding than others, but it is hard to predict.

If your doe doesn’t collaborate on the first day, keep trying every day until she does. Light plays a big part in the Holland Lop doe’s receptivity. Try to simulate the number of hours of light in spring by leaving the lights on, and you may have better luck.

Some does can be very stubborn about rising for the buck. You could try to encourage her by lifting her rear slightly (make sure you have long sleeves on in case she tries to bite). If she appears to be completely disinterested or is grumbling, you should remove her and try her later as a disgruntled doe may attack and injure the buck.

Always watch. No it isn’t being rude or nosy…it is important for several reasons. You’ll know if she was actually bred and you will be there to step in quickly if the pair begins to fight or bite each other too hard. When the breeding is through with, take the doe back to her cage.