Danger, Danger Everywhere.

The New England Cottontail, like most wild animals, is great prey for bigger species, such as owls, foxes and hawks. They also face danger from another rabbit species, the Eastern cottontail, a bigger, faster breed introduced from Europe to America in the 1920’s by private hunting clubs to increase the available game population. These rabbits bully their smaller cousins out of their homes, taking over the few suitable habitats that remain.

A Plan to save the Cottontails?

In attempt to prevent the New England Cottontail following species like the Columbia Basin Pygmy rabbit into total extinction, the York Landtrust in Maine has declared 2009 the “Year of the Cottontail”. A plot of land known as Highland Farms, actually an abandoned and over grown golf course, has proved to be one of the last places in Maine where the New England Cottontail continues to breed and thrive. It has also become the new home of several other threatened species, including the American Woodcock and the black racer snake. The trust is trying to preserve these unique conditions and duplicate them in other areas. They also plan to begin constructing artificial burrows and adding more of the scrubby brush and hedgerows that the New England Cottontails need to thrive.

Struggling to Survive in a Changing World.
The Amami can only be found on two isolated Japanese islands, and have lived happily in dense wooded areas surviving on bamboo shots, berries and other local vegetation. They are sometimes called “living fossils” as they are the last remaining descendants of ancient wild rabbits that once roamed the whole of the Asian continent. They weigh an average of 5 to 6 pounds, and are usually a dark grey in color. Their dwindling numbers have come about mainly as a result of human interference in their lives. Up until the 1920’s they were hunted for both meat and medical purposes, then heavy logging in the
Amami Oshima and Tokunoshima Islands where they live all but destroyed their habitat. The fact that a healthy Amami doe only usually produces two small litters per year meant that natural restocking could not keep up with decimation being caused by the modern world and its’ people.

Using Science to Save a Species.
The Osaka geneticists, from the noted Kiki University, took cells from the ear of a dead Amami rabbit, and introduced them to an unfertilized egg from a lab rabbit. They did manage to create a viable embryo that was successfully re implanted. Although the scientists have yet to publically release the results of this first pregnancy, they do intend to continue their work until they are successful. The same team did successfully clone and restore a species of wild rat, so they believe that saving the ancient Amami is a real possibility.

Caring for the Bigger Bunny

Although their fur is fairly short, this breed still requires regular and careful grooming and brushing, as their coats tend to mat easily. Eye color will vary from rabbit to rabbit, the white British Giant rabbit however is well known for its piercing pink eyes.

Just as the name implies, these rabbits are huge. The average British Giant buck weighs over 12.5 pounds, and does are usually even heavier. They do need a good amount of exercise, so it would be a good idea to provide them with an enclosed run for free movement and play.

Keeping Your Giant Safe and Healthy

The British Giant is normally a very sociable and playful rabbit, with a calm and gentle disposition. They do well around children, although they may not be suitable as pets for small toddlers because of their extra large size. The British Giant will quite happily play with toys and trinkets especially if they make a noise, although a responsible owner will be careful not to give them toys with tiny removable parts that they could choke on.

The ideal diet for the British Giant Rabbit is similar to that of most breeds – fresh hay, a variety of fruits and vegetables and lots of fresh water. As the British Giant will happily wander around the house, they should be kept way from houseplants, as many common varieties are quite poisonous to rabbits.

English Spot Rabbits – Professional Show Offs

The English Rabbit, also known as the English Spot Rabbit is one of the oldest breeds of show rabbit in the world. The original English rabbit was traditionally white and black, or white and blue, but since the 1920s show associations have accepted many other colors including chocolate, lilac and tortoiseshell.

A Long and Storied History

The English rabbit first appeared around 1848, in England of course. After an initial burst of popularity on the show circuit the breed the English Spot died out somewhat. However it burst back onto the scene in the late 1880’s in new colors and varieties and has remained a rabbit fancy favorite ever since.

A Distinctive Gentleman from Head to Toe

The common factor for the English rabbit, whatever its color, is the “herringbone” line pattern that runs down its spine from ears to tail. They also have solid colored nose markings and rings around both eyes. For an English to be show worthy the spots and markings on its hind quarters must be clearly defined. A rabbit whose spots run into one another will be disqualified.

As it is such a popular show breed owners have been disqualified from competitions for trying to get away with such cheats as spot dyeing the rabbits coat or puttying their noses to make them appear more prominent!

Lively, Lovable Clowns

The English is a lively rabbit, loving to cavort about, seeming to be great show offs. Does usually make excellent mothers, and will raise kits other than their own to maturity. They do require careful and regular grooming to keep their dense coats shiny and healthy.

In the average litter of newborn English kits, only half will usually be “correctly” marked. There is often one kit that is known as a Charlie, as it has only half the usual amount of markings and a “Charlie Chaplin” mustache. Other kits can be born with a solid color coat, with no extra markings at all.

The Dwarf Lop – Colorful and Cuddly

A Dwarf Lop is very similar in appearance to its’ similarly sized cousin, the Mini Lop. The only real difference is size, the Dwarf Lop being larger by a pound or so on average.

Both breeds make great pets, but as the Dwarf Lop lives to an average of nine or ten years old, they are rabbits that will be around for a long time, with proper care and handling.

Do the Ears Hang Low?

The baby Dwarf Lop is born, like all breeds of lop, with ears that stand up straight. As they mature the ears flop down into the characteristic droopy style.

The Dwarf Lop breed was perfected first, as the result of introducing a dwarfing gene to a strain of French Lop rabbits in the late nineteen eighties. They are a relatively new breed to American market, but are becoming increasingly popular as pets for older children. It is not always recommended to give a Dwarf Lop to a very small child, as they are quite delicate and may not withstand rough handling.

Dwarf Lops come in many different colors, from black to lilac to orange. They can be one of any number of patterns too. Show Dutch Lops will only be accepted in black, white, blue, agouti, chinchilla, sable, seal point and fawn. Any other color would be disqualified as unsuitable.

As Cool as Cats

The Dwarf Lop is quite smart, and can be trained to use a litter box or tray. If you do decide to litter train any breed of rabbit it is best to use a non- clumping litter, as rabbits choke easily, and will not be able to digest hard lumps of clay litter.

Dwarf Lops are usually very affectionate and loving. Some pet owners report that their Lops actually seem to be purring when they are being stroked and petted.

Cute, Cuddly and Economical

The Mini Rex is now the most shown breed in the world, and one of the most popular with pet owners. Yet they have only actually been around since the mid eighties, when Mona Berryhill, a breeder from Texas, successfully bred a Dwarf Rex to a Lynx Rex.
So what is it about these little guys that make them so very popular?
The Mini Rex is of course very small, averaging three to four pounds in weight. Their fur is extremely luxurious but not so long that they require constant grooming. They do not eat very much food, about as much as can fit into a tuna can per day. Because of their size they can live indoors without taking up too much space, and are usually smart enough to be litter trained.

Great with Kids and Clever Too

The Mini Rex is a very popular breed with children, who tend to love them for their cuddliness, as the Mini Rex is normally a very affectionate animal. They are fairly hardy little souls, and usually live to at least six or seven years of age. They can thrive outdoors, as long as their hutch is well insulated and protected from the elements.

Watch Their Feet

The only problem that Mini Rex Owners have reported is that the breed seems particularly prone to developing sore hocks (lesions and sores on the bottoms of their feet.) Some Mini Rex breeders recommend keeping the feet wrapped or having the bunny wear protective “footies” when active.

The Rapid Rise of the Mini Rex Bunny

The Mini Rex now comes in a wide variety of colors, most of which have now been accepted by ARBA as show worthy. The first Mini Rex shown in America, by Ms. Berryhill, was a castor (a dark gray/brown) color, and it was that particular rabbit who went before the ABRA selection committee in 1986 and impressed the judges enough that the Mini Rex became an officially recognized breed a mere two years after it was created.

Line Breeding is the process of breeding “like with like”. That means that the rabbits the line breeder uses all come from the same family line, and have similar all around genetic makeups.

Line Breeding allows the rabbit breeder, professional or hobbyist, to produce a quality line of animals in a relatively short amount of time.

The Dangers of a Line Breeding Program

The biggest problem with line breeding is that it will intensify all of the genes, good or bad. Starting a line breeding program with quality rabbit stock is essential.

Purchasing rabbits from online breeders is becoming more common these days, but before an aspiring rabbit farmer does so, he or she must remember, without seeing the animal in person, and being given the chance to examine them, they cannot be sure that they are going to get what they pay for.

A smart consumer will ask other rabbit breeders for recommendations for a reputable site that they have used successfully.

Take the Time to Educate Yourself

In the American Rabbit Breeder’s Association Handbook, a must read for any aspiring rabbit breeder, there is a standardized chart which clearly lays down the best way to breed a line of related rabbits, and it spans six generations.

The diagram begins with the initially selected buck and doe and moves through all the possible relative to relative breeding combinations.
Genetic weaknesses do occur in line bred rabbits, and it is not out of the question for a breeder to introduce an unrelated animal or two to an established line to attempt to correct specific defects.

Learning the very basics at least about rabbit genetics as they might apply to the selected breed can be very helpful to beginner.

Why Should I Spay or Neuter my Pet Bunny? Why not Breed?

It may be an attractive idea. Breeding your cute pet bunny, to produce a few more cute bunnies that you could put into a show or sell to the local pet store.

However, rabbit breeding is a serious business, and thousands of rabbits are left homeless every year as a result of a “back yard breeding” experiment gone wrong.

Get Rich with Rabbits?

Most serious rabbit breeders will tell you, if you think you will become wealthy breeding bunnies, think again. If you are willing to breed rabbits for the love of it, and have the considerable resources and available space to do so successfully, it can be incredibly rewarding.

Experienced rabbit breeders take great pride in the development of new colors, patterns and even breeds.

A rabbit bought from a chain pet store is rarely ever suitable for breeding purposes. It is hard to find out enough about the pet store rabbits ancestry and genetics to use them in a breeding program that will have a chance of being a successful one.

Thinking Ahead Before You Begin

In the event that you did decide to breed, and began properly, with quality stock, what will become of the kits once they are born? Are you willing and able to house those less desirable rabbits that don’t sell as babies?

Will you take back an unwanted rabbit if the purchaser finds them unsuitable, or just no longer wants them?

Many people buy rabbits, especially as pets, on a whim, and have no idea the amount of work involved in keeping them happy and healthy.

If you are not able to face these kinds of responsibilities rabbit breeding is not for you. That isn’t to say no one should breed rabbits outside of large “bunny mills”.

If undertaken in the knowledge that there is a good deal of hard work and financial investment involved, rabbit breeding can be a fulfilling and enjoyable experience for bunny lovers anywhere.

Choosing the Right Rabbits for First Time Breeding

Choosing the right rabbits to begin a new breeding line is essential to its success or failure. Finding healthy, physically sound specimens is the first step for any breeder just starting out.

Making Sure Your Bunnies are Ready to Mate

When selecting rabbits for breeding the animals should be thoroughly checked for disease, preferably by a good vet.

Many does suffer from uterine and ovarian cancers at an early age, and to attempt to breed them could prove disastrous for all involved.Bucks should also be checked too, just to make sure they are disease free and ready to mate.

Inexperienced breeders may consider mating rabbits of two different breeds, just to see what they might come up with. Mixed rabbits such as these however are of little value and the potential for disfiguring or fatal genetic abnormalities is high.

New rabbit breeds are the result of long and often heartbreaking breeding programs, as the number of kits that die within days of some unexpected cause is high.

Breeding for Quality, One Step at a Time

When starting a breeding program to produce higher quality rabbits, which may be suitable show rabbits, the breeder should only try to improve the line one fault at a time.

If you have an otherwise good looking rabbit with too broad shoulders and too short ears, introduce a rabbit with better looking shoulders to the line first. Once you have rabbits with the correct upper body type, you can then move on to improving the ears with the introduction of another unrelated animal to the line.

Becoming familiar with color genetics, and experimenting with new color combinations can produce very attractive, though possibly not show worthy, rabbits.

A working knowledge of color basics can also help the breeder avoid litters full of “Charlie Marked” kits, rabbits who are usually white with only a few splashes of uneven color.

Breeding the Holland Lop, a Beginner’s Guide

For Holland Lop Rabbit Breeding you’ll need separate cages for the buck and the doe. They will happily breed unsupervised if they’re caged together.

You will also need a different cage for the offspring, and a lot of cages if you care to acquire them up for meat or appearance.

This can be quite a considerable financial investment to start with…feeders, trays, water bottles etc. You’ll also need a nestbox for the doe.

Make a sure your rabbits are free of diseases. Rabbit VD can cause the doe to lose her fur. Make certain your chosen rabbits are well conditioned and in good shape. Overweight does have a difficult time giving birth.

Getting Off to a Good Start

To start controlled breeding, add the Holland Lop doe to the buck’s cage. He will try to mount her. Hopefully, your doe will collaborate and will advance her rear up for him. Within a identical short clip will bang his feet, and may grunt and drop-off.

I usually allow a buck three conjugations, and then remove the doe from the cage. It is usually recommended to try rebreeding again within six hours. Go write this date on the calendar so you don’t forget!!!

Also, count up 28 days on your calendar and write “Nestbox”. Finally, count day 30 and write “Bunnies Due”. Don’t think you are going to remember. Little is worse than seeing a perfectly nice litter born dead on the cage floor.

Keeping Watch is Key

Does are induced ovulators, which means they don’t have a heat cycle like dogs do. They do have times when they are need less forced breeding than others, but it is hard to predict.

If your doe doesn’t collaborate on the first day, keep trying every day until she does. Light plays a big part in the Holland Lop doe’s receptivity. Try to simulate the number of hours of light in spring by leaving the lights on, and you may have better luck.

Some does can be very stubborn about rising for the buck. You could try to encourage her by lifting her rear slightly (make sure you have long sleeves on in case she tries to bite). If she appears to be completely disinterested or is grumbling, you should remove her and try her later as a disgruntled doe may attack and injure the buck.

Always watch. No it isn’t being rude or nosy…it is important for several reasons. You’ll know if she was actually bred and you will be there to step in quickly if the pair begins to fight or bite each other too hard. When the breeding is through with, take the doe back to her cage.