Rabbit Breeding

So, you have had your adorable, cuddly bunny for several months, and all of a sudden your bundle of fluff has become the Demon Rabbit. He refuses to use his litter box and does not want to be held. In fact he’ll bite and scratch if you even attempt to pick him up. No, he hasn’t gone crazy; your rabbit is just entering his terrible teenage stage.

Dealing with a Teenage Terror Rabbit

Spaying or neutering your pet will help calm his foul temper and that can be safely performed at any time after your bunny is four months old. If you do intend to breed your pet this is of course not an immediate option, but there are ways to deal with some of the most common problems that “teenage” rabbits present.

Taming a Biter Bunny

One of the most common things that a maturing rabbit will do is start to bite. To avoid becoming a victim never pull your rabbit from his cage when he is facing you, as he may feel “cornered” and his only defense is his teeth. Instead, stroke him gently behind the ears and turn him around gently with your other hand, so that he is no longer facing you. Then pull him out gently, supporting his back legs firmly.

Just like their human counterparts teenage rabbits will not appreciate being disturbed from a great nap. Most rabbits prefer to spend much of their day sleeping, becoming more active around dawn and dusk, a genetic throwback from their wild ancestors, as these are safest times for wild rabbits to hunt. To avoid being nipped allow him to sleep when he wants, he might be more up for a nice playtime if he decides what time that should take place.

Reintroducing the Litter Box

For the unaltered teenage rabbit this can be hard. When your rabbit is out and about make sure there is a litter box no farther away from him than about 15 feet. Teenage rabbits seem to forget about their litter box if it is much farther away, unlike a pet cat who search the whole house to track his down. Often a teenage rabbit will become so engrossed in his tasty hay that he will forget about his litter box. Placing hay in front of it may help him remember.

Rabbit teeth grow, and they grow throughout his life, not just when he or she is a kit. Taking the time to take care of your rabbit’s teeth can prevent serious problems down the line;

Proper Rabbit Tooth Alignment

Ideally, a rabbit’s teeth should have top incisors slightly overlapping the bottom set. If the incisors touch instead of overlap the rabbit is considered to have “butting teeth”. If they are given something hard but safe to chew on, the problem often takes care of itself as the teeth wear down into a better alignment. Longer teeth, called “wolf teeth” can keep growing until they resemble fangs, making it hard for the bunny to eat. Such teeth should be examined by a vet for possible clipping.

Clipping Rabbit Teeth

That may sound a little strange but clipping rabbit teeth is a very common practice. Experienced rabbit breeders are perfectly comfortable doing it themselves; a rabbit’s teeth are quite brittle and toenail clippers are adequate for the job. A file is then used to smooth the jagged result. However, as most rabbits are often jumpy and unpredictable in these kinds of situations a beginner will do best to visit a vet to have their rabbit’s teeth clipped. Most will charge the same as they do to clip a bunny’s toenails.

Molar Problems and Broken Teeth

A rabbit that has molar rather than incisor problems should be examined by a vet for treatment. Molar problems can cause abbesses and make it difficult for the rabbit to eat anything. Molar clipping should be handled by a professional only as it often requires the use of anesthesia. Broken teeth are less of a problem, as they grow back very quickly, in a matter of weeks.

Chewing for Good Dental Health

The best way to help your rabbit maintain good teeth is to make sure he has plenty to chew on, helping him wear his teeth naturally. Hay is helpful but the addition of chewing sticks is a good idea. As some woods are toxic to bunnies it is best to stick to the commercially prepared ones that can be found in most pet supply stores.

The average rabbit is a naturally very curious and fun loving little animal. To be truly happy and healthy your bunnies need mental exercise as well as physical. If your rabbit has no outlet for fun he can become bored and overweight, depressed even. Toys should always be provided.

What Will My Rabbit Play With?

Some of a rabbit’s favorite toys can be common household items. Something as simple as an empty toilet roll stuffed with hay can provide your bunny with a safe chew toy as well as fun at mealtime. You can make him a bunny playhouse from a simple cardboard box, with entrance and exit doors for him to run through. Some rabbits enjoy shredding newspaper and will be amused that way. Often a bunny will enjoy digging and chewing. Why not fill another box with shredded paper for happy burrowing?

Store Bought Toys Suitable for Rabbits

Most bunnies enjoy playing with lightweight toys that they can pick up and toss around. Baby toys are perfect for rabbits too, and most of them love something that makes a noise. To encourage your rabbit to play with his toys toss one to him gently, in most cases he will toss it right back. Many rabbits enjoy playing with a small ball, but remember balloons are to be avoided; if they burst a rabbit may choke himself on the rubber. Many pet stores sell toys packaged especially for rabbits, but they tend to be more expensive than simple dollar store items that will keep your rabbit just as entertained.

Variety is the Key

Just like children, a rabbit will become bored with his toys at one time or another. Changing the toys in his cage or play area every so often will keep him interested. Do not give your rabbit any toy with small pieces that he could break off and choke on. Don’t forget to play with your rabbit and his toys, most rabbits like a good game with their owner, and regular playtime is a great way to “socialize” your bunny.

As the weather in many parts of the world heats up, it is a good time to give a little thought to keeping your rabbit cool, especially if they spend a good deal of time outdoors. A wild rabbit is free to go wherever it wants, so can seek out shade or heat as they see fit. A pet bunny’s environment is controlled solely by the owner, so your bunny is depending on you to make sure they don’t get overheated.
The Perfect Temperature
Rabbits do best in a coolish environment, somewhere around 55 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. A rabbit’s physical make up does not allow it to pant a lot to cool off, like a dog will, and they do not sweat. Rabbits with long ears have an advantage over their lop eared counterparts, as the ears do provide act as a sort of cooling mechanism, but not a very efficient one. Overheating in rabbits can be a serious problem, even resulting in death.
How to tell if Your Rabbit is Suffering in the Heat
If on a warm day your rabbit becomes very lethargic, or lies down, breathes heavily and tries to pant, these are all good indicators that he is too hot. If you do observe these symptoms it is very important to act quickly. He should be taken to a cooler area or room, and misted with water and wrapped in a damp towel.
If your bunny still does not seem to be improving, you can run cool, not cold, water all over his body, taking are to avoid his head. Once he seems to be feeling a little better, treat your rabbit as you would for shock. Have the rabbit lie in a cool, darkened area, with easy access to plenty of drinking water. If he does not return to his usual habits within a day or so, a visit to the vet is called for.